I’m going to save the modesty for another day: this summer squash shakshuka is a knock out. If you love tomato-based shakshuka (and what’s not to love?) it will taste comfortingly familiar. But this version is unapologetically zucchini-forward—a jumble of shredded zucchini sautéed down into a jammy, textured sauce. There are a handful of tomatoes in the mix, but they play a supporting, rather than starring, role.
If a non tomato-based shakshuka feels a little unorthodox, I get it. The North African dish of poached eggs swimming in a spicy tomato stew has become ubiquitous because it is about as close to perfection as a breakfast (or dinner) dish can get. Variations of shakshuka, which are consumed daily in Tunisia, Libya, Morocco, Algeria and, thanks to Jewish immigrants from those countries, in Israel as well, almost always feature tomatoes—fresh, canned, paste, or a mix of all three.
But I like to think that shakshuka, at its heart, is a clean out the fridge—or clean out the garden—type of dish. After all, the word shakshuka stems from the Arabic word for “mix.” Why not mix things up a little?
My recipe was inspired by the delightful panic that comes from hosting brunch on short notice. (Can something simultaneously delight and panic you? I think yes, because this did.) My sister-in-law Temim* and her partner Erin were coming over for Memorial Day brunch—a last minute do-over after a bout of the flu thwarted our original Shavuot dinner plans. I didn’t have time to do a grocery shop, which meant the the menu was dictated by the contents of our fridge and pantry.
Zucchini to the rescue! I knew from making the Syrian-Jewish zucchini casserole jibn, that grating a bunch of zucchini and cooking it down until it turns golden and soft with hints of caramelization is truly magical. But would that same magic work as a base for shakshuka? Spoiler alert: It did. It really did. The flavor was rich but delicate and summery. And you know how all shakshuka recipes instruct you to make indentations for the eggs with the back of a spoon, but they never hold their shape in soupy tomato sauce? Well, the zucchini base is thicker than a traditional tomato sauce, so the indentations held beautifully. Sometimes it’s the little things.
I made the Summer Squash Shakshuka with zucchini from the supermarket, but will make it again on repeat with other varieties of summer squash once they start showing up at the farmer’s market next month. The dish’s simplicity, abundant flavor, and adaptability are a reminder that home cooking can be so joyful. I hope you think so too!
*Temim is a stunningly wonderful writer whose first book City of Laughter is coming out next year and whose most recent short story, Like Kings left me breathless. Here’s her website and Instagram, both of which I have a feeling you will want to know after reading the story.
Should We Start a PORTICO Cookbook Club? (vote below!)
Before we get to this week’s recipe, I’ve got a question for paid (or soon-to-be-paid) newsletter subscribers. My cookbook, Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Community is coming out on August 29 (!), and I’m wondering: do you want to start a Portico cookbook club with me?
Here’s what I’m thinking: In early or mid September, before Rosh Hashanah, we pick a couple of recipes from Portico, cook them at home, and then hop on Zoom to nosh, kibbitz about the recipes, and learn more about Rome’s vibrant and historic Jewish community.
Here are just a few options of dishes we could make (photos by Kristin Teig):
So what do you say? Let me know in the poll below if you might be interested in cooking together from Portico this fall.
Meanwhile, have you preordered your copy of Portico yet? If you love Jewish food, food history, Italy, or travel, there is something wonderful for you inside its pages. Preorders are so darn helpful from the author’s perspective, so if you’ve been thinking about it, now is an excellent time.
This week’s recipe is for paid subscribers to The Jewish Table. The next free newsletter/recipe will be published in about 3 weeks, but why wait? Access all the deliciousness right now by upgrading to a paid subscription.
Summer Squash Shakshuka
Serve this shakshuka with warm pita, crusty bread, or challah. And if you like a little spice, top it with chili oil (I love this one from Holy Tshili) or another hot sauce.
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